Tulips thrive in soils rich in humus, well-drained sand, or sandy loam. To grow them successfully, it's essential to select high-lying areas with good drainage. Based on experience, for every 100 square meters of land, you should apply 125 kg of fully decomposed manure or 225 kg of cake fertilizer as a base fertilizer. In the first year, the soil should be tilled to a depth of 20 cm and leveled properly. Before planting, wait until the temperature stabilizes at 14°C for at least three consecutive days. On a sunny day, use a 100% solution of 40% formalin (at least 10 cm deep) and cover the area with plastic film for disinfection. Leave the film in place for more than seven days, then remove it the day before planting. The soil should be fine, with a slightly raised center and lower edges to ensure proper drainage.
I. Preparation
Use a 1000-fold solution of thiophanate-methyl and another 1000-fold solution to disinfect bulbs. When doing so, remember:
1) Disinfectant should not be used for more than half a day.
2) Bulbs must be completely submerged in the solution.
3) Soak for 20 minutes.
4) After soaking, drain the bulbs before planting.
5) Plant sterilized bulbs on the same day they are treated.
1. Planting Bulbs
In China, tulip bulbs are commonly used for ornamental displays or garden landscapes. The typical planting density is around 36 bulbs per square meter. Early-flowering varieties can be planted more densely, while cut-flower production may require over 100 bulbs per square meter. The planting depth should be 4–5 cm from the top of the bulb, meaning about 4–5 cm of soil covering the bulb. Under favorable conditions, roots usually develop within two weeks.
2. Watering
If the soil is dry after planting, watering is necessary to help the roots establish. However, avoid overwatering, as tulips do not tolerate soggy conditions. Ensure proper drainage if rain occurs.
3. Fertilization and Pest Control
Once temperatures rise in February, spray the emerging buds with an 800-times dilution of chlorothalonil or thiophanate to prevent disease. Apply a top dressing of compound fertilizer. During leaf development and flowering, spray again with chlorothalonil or Topozin at 800 times dilution. Depending on plant growth, apply a second dose of compound fertilizer.
4. Potted Plants and Management
For potted tulips, use a mix of high-humus soil, well-drained sand, or peat-based soil. Add sufficient base fertilizer, and ensure the potting soil is sterilized before planting. Plant bulbs when the temperature stabilizes below 12°C, covering them with 1–2 cm of soil. Water thoroughly and place in a shaded area until roots develop. Then move to a greenhouse. If grown outdoors, ensure proper drainage in the pots to avoid waterlogging.
II. 5°C Ball Cultivation Management
The bulbs must be planted immediately upon arrival. Soil preparation and bulb disinfection follow the same process as for regular tulips. The requirements for 5°C ball cultivation are very strict. Growers must carefully read the planting instructions provided. If unsure, contact technical staff promptly.
1. Remove the outer brown layer gently before planting
Carefully remove the outer brown cortex without damaging the bulb’s primordium. If the bulb has been peeled at 5°C, it can be planted more shallowly to promote root growth and reduce greenhouse time by 3–4 days. Sometimes, roots may already appear at the root primordium, so avoid forcefully inserting the bulb into the soil. After planting, add a layer of coarse peat on top to protect the soil structure. Water immediately after planting to prevent drying. For peeled bulbs, expose the bulb nose to the soil. Unpeeled bulbs should be planted 2–4 cm deep, covering the top to encourage rooting.
2. Provide a low enough soil temperature for root development
After planting, ensure the soil remains at a sufficiently low temperature to support healthy root growth. The soil temperature should stay below 9°C for at least two weeks. Otherwise, the bulbs may suffer, leading to blind buds. If the greenhouse temperature exceeds 17°C, delay planting by 1–2 weeks. Choose cool planting locations and take steps to keep the soil as cold as possible. Before planting, pour cold water over the soil. After planting, also use cold water and cover the soil with straw to block sunlight and provide ventilation.
It’s important to note that tulip roots are highly sensitive. Avoid transplanting or moving pots during the rooting phase, as root damage will prevent normal flowering. Many growers mistakenly believe that poor flowering is due to bulb quality, but in reality, low temperatures and poor rooting often lead to blind buds. A healthy root system is crucial for success.
3. Provide suitable soil and greenhouse temperatures
After 2–3 weeks of low-temperature rooting, the soil temperature should be between 13°C and 16°C, and the greenhouse temperature between 15°C and 18°C. This range supports healthy tulip growth. If the temperature is too low, flowering will be delayed; if too high, the quality of the flowers may be affected.
4. Keep greenhouse humidity below 80%
High humidity can inhibit transpiration, causing growth issues and increasing the risk of botrytis. Symptoms like drooping leaves, water-soaked stems, and wilted flowers often result from excessive moisture. Maintain humidity below 80% by ventilating the greenhouse, such as using fans to improve air circulation.
5. Water appropriately to maintain ideal soil moisture
Water before planting to lower soil temperature. Plant bulbs in slightly moist soil, and water after planting to aid early root development. Water based on the soil’s ability to hold shape, ensuring it is moist enough for the plant to grow. Avoid overwatering, especially as the flowering period approaches. Water in the morning and ventilate afterward to reduce humidity between plants.
6. Pest Control
Check plants frequently for diseases like gray mold, rot, and botrytis once they reach 5–10 cm in height. Plants with slow stem growth may be infected with Fusarium—remove them immediately to prevent spreading. Apply carbofuran before and after planting to control pests like worms and mites. Spray 2–3 times with quick-acting fungicides or chlorothalonil at 800 times dilution before bud formation.
7. Fertilization
Generally, no fertilizer is needed. If growth is weak and nitrogen absorption is insufficient, consider applying a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer. Once the bulbs are well developed, apply 2 kg of calcium nitrate per 100 square meters, divided into three applications between the plants.
8. Cut-Flower Production
Producers can use box planting for cut-flower production. Prepare a stable 9°C, well-ventilated space (like a cold room) for bulb rooting. Clean the roots before planting, remove all sources of waste gas and ethylene, and prepare sterilized soil and crates. After sterilizing the bulbs, plant them in turnover boxes and move them to the rooting area. After 3–4 weeks of rooting, transfer them to the greenhouse. Follow the same temperature and humidity guidelines. Avoid damaging the roots during movement, and do not move the plants before the dew appears.
9. Potted Flower Cultivation
The potting method for 5°C balls is similar to natural bulbs. Peeling the bulbs before planting and exposing the nose reduces rooting time. Allow at least 2 weeks of rooting at 9°C or higher. Avoid moving or repotting before the dew forms to prevent root damage. You can plant one bulb per pot or multiple bulbs in a larger container.
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