When selecting kiwifruit varieties, it is essential to choose high-quality, storage-resistant, and disease-tolerant types. Varieties such as Qin Mei, Yat, Hayward, Hongyang, and Huaguang 2 are highly recommended for their excellent characteristics and adaptability. These varieties not only produce superior fruit but also show strong resistance to environmental stress and pests.
To ensure optimal growth, plant kiwifruit in a cool and humid environment. The ideal soil type is slightly acidic sandy loam that is well-drained, fertile, and rich in organic matter. Choose a location that is sheltered from strong winds and free from the risk of frost damage. Deep soil with good structure will support healthy root development and long-term productivity.
Planting should be done during the appropriate season. For best results, plant before the onset of spring growth or after the leaves have fallen in late autumn. Avoid planting too late in spring, as this may expose young plants to harsh weather conditions. Timing is crucial to ensure the plants establish themselves properly before the growing season begins.
For proper spacing, use T-frames or trellises, especially in densely planted orchards. Before planting, dig holes measuring 1 meter in diameter and 60 cm deep. Mix 10 to 13 kg of well-decomposed organic fertilizer with the soil and fill the hole before planting. It's important to include male plants at a ratio of about 20% to ensure effective pollination. Soft-wool varieties tend to grow more slowly and should be planted closely, while bristle varieties, which grow vigorously, require more space—typically 3 meters between plants and 4 meters between rows.
In case of rainy weather, artificial pollination using pollen from male flowers is recommended to ensure proper fruit set. This technique helps improve yield and fruit quality when natural pollinators are limited.
Fruit thinning should be done early in the season to prevent over-crowding and promote larger, healthier fruits. Proper fruit setting ensures better distribution of nutrients and energy among the developing fruits.
Soil management is critical for long-term productivity. Each year, deepen and expand the planting holes, combining this with autumn soil improvement. Apply 2,000 to 2,500 kg of high-quality farm manure per acre in young orchards, and 4,000 to 5,000 kg in mature ones. Fertilize the plants 3 to 4 times annually. Before bud break, apply nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, such as 10–15 kg of urea and 20–30 kg of superphosphate per acre. During fruit enlargement, use 30–40 kg of potassium sulfate compound fertilizer per acre. Throughout the growing season, spray the plants with 3–4 applications of trace elements like calcium, iron, and zinc. Water immediately after each fertilization to help the nutrients penetrate the soil effectively.
Summer pruning involves removing excess buds and cutting back the central shoot. Result branches should be left with 10–15 nodes, while nutrition branches can be left with 15–20 nodes. After pruning, remove any auxiliary shoots to maintain balance. From late December to late February, perform winter pruning. For young trees, shorten new shoots to encourage branching and accelerate crown development. After harvest, focus on updating old fruiting branches by combining pruning with soil loosening. Bristle varieties, which grow strongly, should be pruned to leave 10–15 long shoots and 5–8 short shoots. Weak-growing varieties need more aggressive pruning, leaving 8–10 long fruiting buds and 3–5 buds on weak fruit branches. After winter pruning, aim for 3 fruit branches and 20–40 shoots per meter of vine.
For pest and disease control, use lime sulfur to prevent ulcer disease and agricultural streptomycin to manage bacterial flower rot. In early spring, manually remove egg masses from shoots and spray with 2.5% kungfu emulsifier diluted 2000–2500 times. Spider mites can be controlled with avermectin sprays. After the leaves fall in autumn, remove and burn or bury pests deeply, and spray lime sulfur to prevent future infections.
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